How to Take Body Measurements for Tailoring

Most fitting problems begin before the tape comes out. A few minutes of preparation makes every number more reliable.

• Ask the client to wear thin, close-fitting clothes and to empty their pockets. Take off belts, jackets and anything bulky.
• Use a flexible tape measure that does not stretch. Check that the end is not worn away and that you are reading the side you mean to use.
• Measure in inches, and use inches for every measurement and every client. Mixing units is an easy way to get a garment wrong, and StitchFundi's measurement form is in inches too.
• Have the client stand upright and relaxed, feet slightly apart, looking straight ahead. Do not ask them to hold their breath or pull in their stomach.
• Keep the tape snug against the body without pressing into it. If a finger slides under the tape, the tension is about right.

Chest (bust, for women)

Around the fullest part of the chest, with the tape level across the back and the arms relaxed at the sides.

Overbust and underbust

Overbust goes around the upper chest, above the bust and under the arms. Underbust goes around the body directly beneath the bust.

Waist and stomach

Waist is the natural waist, the narrowest part of the torso, usually just above the navel. For a man's stomach measurement, go around the fullest part of the belly instead.

Neck

Around the base of the neck, where a collar sits, with room for a finger under the tape.

Shoulders

Across the back from the edge of one shoulder to the edge of the other. Shops measure this in different ways, so agree on one method and use it every time.

Sleeve

From the edge of the shoulder down the outside of the arm to the wrist bone, with the elbow slightly bent.

Shirt or top length

From the high point of the shoulder beside the neck straight down to where the hem should fall.

Bodice (women)

From the high point of the shoulder, over the bust, down to the natural waist.

Hips

Around the fullest part of the hips and seat, keeping the tape level all the way round.

Trouser waist

Where the trousers will actually sit, which is often below the natural waist. Ask the client how they like to wear them.

Thigh

Around the fullest part of the upper thigh.

Knee

Around the knee, with the leg relaxed.

Bottom (trouser leg opening)

This is a style decision more than a body measurement. Agree the width with the client and record it.

Trouser length

From the waist down the outside of the leg to where the hem should end. Have the client wear the shoes they will wear with the trousers.

Crotch

Agree how your shop defines this measurement and take it the same way every time. One common method is to have the client sit upright on a flat chair and measure from the waist at the side down to the seat.

Skirt and dress lengths

From the natural waist (or from the shoulder, for a full dress) down to the chosen hem: above the knee, knee, midi, ankle or floor. For floor length, have the client stand in the shoes or heel height they will wear.

1. Write each number down as soon as you take it, with the name of the measurement. Do not rely on memory.
2. Measure again anything that looks unusual. If you have the client's earlier measurements, compare them: a large change is either a real change in the body or a mistake.
3. Note what the numbers do not show, such as a sloping shoulder, one shoulder higher than the other, a prominent stomach, or an upright or stooped posture. These all affect the cut.
4. Date the record. Bodies change, so measure again before a new order if it has been a while since the last one or the client's weight has changed.

The numbers above describe the client's body. A finished garment needs extra room, called ease, and how much depends on the garment and the style: a fitted dress, a shirt, and a jacket worn over other layers all need different amounts.

Record the body measurements as they are and decide the ease when you draft the pattern. If you add ease to the recorded numbers, the next order for the same client starts from figures that are no longer the body's.